Shiant Islands, Outer Hebrides & St Kilda

FULL VOYAGE DESCRIPTION

About this Voyage

Ullapool is North of Skye and the Torridon Mountains. As a summer base it gives us close access to the Northern islands of the Outer Hebrides and the Shiant Islands. Our aim for this 9 day sailing expedition is to reach St Kilda, but there are plenty of stunning alternatives for the adventurous sailor.

After using Lewis or Harris as a stepping stone, the Sound of Harris takes us through to the Atlantic side of the Outer Hebrides. Taransay and Pabbay are close by, but St Kilda lies 35 miles out into the ocean, so the sea state and swell direction has to be right to anchor there.  Alternatives include options all around Skye and further South down the Outer Hebridean chain.

The voyage ends in Stornoway with twice daily ferries back to Ullapool, or flights back to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness or even Benbecula at the Southern end of the island chain.

Tallulah is a 2008 replica of the seaworthy 19th Century working pilot cutters that plied their trade in the Western Approaches to Lands End. She makes a great expedition ship, but this is a a small group adventure with only 6 guests participating as crew. Expect to be fully involved in the sailing, and we also hope to be sharing the exploring ashore with you too, where we can.

Tallulah’s First Foray to Wilderness Scotland

Pilot cutter Tallulah is 44ft on deck and 59ft overall. Bought specifically as a perfect boat to run charter holidays by her current skipper/owner Debbie Purser in 2021, Tallulah has quickly been building up a following – with voyages in Cornwall, the Isles of Scilly and Brittany in the last 5 seasons. Before that Debbie ran charter voyages on ‘Eve of St Mawes’ for 23 years.

So who comes on our voyages ?

With a female skipper/ owner and plenty of adventurous relief skippers and mates we try and cultivate a fairly energetic and healthy vibe on board. Tallulah runs yoga and watersports voyages, wild swimming, connect with nature – wellness breaks, sailing and walking and lots more back in Cornwall, so we like to think we can give your energy levels a boost the wilds of Scotland too. Attitude rather than age is the mantra amongst our sea staff. Tallulah’s mix of guests over the last 5 year have been 47%- 51% female, so we like to think we have the social and gender mix right too. Its not all physical action. This beautiful cutter lures musicians, artists, climbers and film makers too. The people that come, make every voyage unique.

Experienced Skippers Heading Back to Scotland

We don’t claim to be experts on Scotland. Tallulah’s two main skippers have sailed here on other boats, but not in a while. This is just us and a great bunch of guests heading Northwards – for the first time with Tallulah as our floating home.  We are calling it an expedition because there is nothing jaded and predictable about it. There are many, many anchorages we have never been to, and a few favourites we haven’t seen for years long to return to. Come and explore with us as we see the seascapes and landscapes with fresh eyes.

Debbie has been lucky enough to have explored Scotland on other charter vessels over the years from Loch Scavaig and the Shiants to Orkney, Fair Isle and the Shetlands.  Anthony has worked on Eda Frandsen in Scotland and is a commercial fisherman in winter, so he knows his seafood.  We will be headhunting a few regular guests and specialists that have other talents to add to each Hebridean voyage in 2027.

The mate and skipper both love cooking so we take turns at cooking. We love seafood and all cuisines, but we don’t claim to be gourmet. It’s just wholesome fresh food, not a competition.  We won’t force you to eat pudding and we have a decent vegetarian range of meals if you tell us.

Where might we go?

There is definitely not a set itinerary for Tallulah.  We view the chart (and ordanance survey maps) with eyes wide open at the options.  The choices are always based on swell, wind direction and landing opportunities. The distances run each day are shaped to the guest crews experience, energy left after the day before and where we think you will find special moments, vistas and connections with nature.

Tallulah has a great bookshelf for us all to understand what we are looking at from birds to whales or eagles. Delve into past explorers or the Viking or Celtic history of the isles and seaways.

Expedition Style Voyage

Through the Sound of Harris and beyond the protection of the Outer Hebrides chain of islands lies the remote St Kilda archipelago, 43 miles offshore the nearest Hebridean shore.

This sailing voyage leads to sparsely inhabited islands, tiny fishing villages, deep lochs and rugged cliffs that will be appealing to nature lovers looking for puffin, sea and white tailed eagles, whales and other cetaceans. The hundreds of islands of the Hebrides have their own character, are very isolated and therefore entirely self-reliant. This area is rich in seabirds, which usually breed on the steep cliff faces.

On a sailing voyage we never use the word itinerary, as skippers will always be aiming for the best sailing and shore landings for the forecast and most idyllic or sheltered anchors and ports. They are as keen as you to include some of the highlights described below, but you have to go with Mother Nature, not fight her. The description below is based on what we think might be possible, based on past trips, or experience, but nothing is guaranteed on a sailing voyage. St Kilda can often be untenable to anchor off due to ocean swell and in those conditions there are much better places to tuck up and anchor.

Ullapool, in the picturesque Loch Broom,  is North of Skye, North of Torridon and level in latitude with the Shiant Islands. Just across the infamous Minch is Harris and Lewis. It is an open water passage with strong tides but only 43 miles across and lots of deep lochs on these two big islands

The Shiants – Puffins and Lonely Authors Bothy

The lovely Shiant Islands would be worth a visit. This is one of the biggest colonies of puffins and by June their chicks have usually hatched and the skies are wheeling with frantic puffins, diving for sand eels. Last time Debbie was on the Shiants she saw two fish eagles (white tailed eagles).

The now uninhabited island group is also the famous retreat of Adam Nicolson. His family left him steward of the islands at 21 and he wrote a book called Sea Room about his struggles and time in the stone bothy that still stands on the main island.  We all fancy the tiny cottage as a holiday escape.

On the way to Ullapool the remote Loch Ewe Boatyard is on Debbies hit list. It has been responsible for some beautiful restorations of working fishing craft and the yard owner Alistair studied boat building at the Boat Building Academy in Lyme Regis.

In Ullapool there is a community led organisation raising money to restore an 80ft Zulu. It is very early days We hope to catch up with their progress.

Ideal time of Year for Wildlife & Seabirds

The waters surrounding the Hebrides and St Kilda are rich in sealife and nutrients. During the crossings between the different islands the chances are high that we will spot whales and seals and this is a great time of year for ocean seabirds as they come into the high cliffs to breed. Twenty species of birds are breeding at St. Kilda, with over a million birds sitting on about 300.000 nests.

A quarter of all the Northern Gannets on the Northern Atlantic totalling about 60 000 pairs are breeding on Boreray and the Stacks. Atlantic Puffin are the most common seabird in the archipelago; there were once millions of pairs but a declining fish population has dramatically reduced there number. St Kilda has its own unique St. Kilda Wren, with a slightly bigger beak and a different song; it is estimated that there are 250 breeding pairs and a major sighting for any ornithologist or amateur bird watchers.

St Kilda – a holy grail for adventurous sailors

St Kilda really is a long lost outpost of the British Empire.  The Outer Hebrides are very self sufficient and distant from the Scottish mainland, but St Kilda sits right out in the Atlantic.

You need a good weather window to reach here and anchor safely. Tecla has a good record for getting to St Kilda despite programming some of the earliest landings of the season, but there are plenty of awesome destinations in less exposed locations if the weather is too wild. Not many sailors get to stand on St Kilda’s main island of Hirta and even less visit the other islands in the group like the Flannan Group and North Rona.

The anchorages are often affected by ocean swell so there is no guarentee it will suitable to stop or even reach the small group of islands.

On this archipelago we will find hundreds of thousands of seabirds.  See below for more details.The island group is very remote and affected by ocean swell so if the weather is too tough for an ocean going sailing ship like Tecla, then she will continue her exploration of the Outer Hebrides

The History of St Kilda and its People

St. Kilda lies approximately 45 sea miles west of the Outer Hebrides. It is a small group of islands, Hirta being the biggest. As long as people can remember Hirta has been inhabited by the Celts. In the ancient feudal era the island group was in possession of the clan Macleod of Macloud.

For millennia the Celtic community on St. Kilda had been dependant on whatever the island group had to offer.

At the beginning of the previous century the St. Kildans lived exceptionally primitive compared to the rest of Europe. They lived of a few sheep, the agriculture and especially of bird catching. Annually a ship with necessities such as knifes, needles and yarn came to the island. These goods were exchanged for dried birds and tweed.

Living off Seabirds

Tens of thousands of birds were caught every year, especially Auks, Northern Fulmars and Northern Gannets. For food they would make dangerous expeditions to catch the birds and there eggs on the incredibly steep cliffs; especially on the islands in the north (Boreray, Stack and Stack Armin) which are really no more than steep tall rocks.
One hundred and eighty people lived on the islands towards the end of the 17th century but they only had 16ft boats to get about in. There was not enough timber to build there own craft so these tiny boats crossed the eighty mile passage from the mainland. 

The St. Kildans lived in houses with walls made of boulders and roofs made of turf and hay. The earliest houses had no chimneys or windows and they must have been very damp, dark and dingy to live in. In the 1830’s wood and glass were introduced into new dwellings and the old houses became stables and stores.

he old feudal Celtic community of St. Kilda was gradually destroyed by the influence the Anglo Saxons from the mainland but the morning “Parliament” persisted. Every morning the men folk would meet on the Village Street and decide what had to be done that day and who would do it.

Strict Christianity had always been part of life on St Kilda and they also were responsible for the education of the children. At the start of the 20th century stone houses with sanitary facilities were introduced and an attempt was made with charity and tourism to keep the islands going; the main aim of which was to get them enough food to live on. But still the inhabitants were poverty stricken and near to starvation most of the time so that on August 29th 1930 the British government removed the last 39 inhabitants.

Also in 1957 the National Trust for Scotland became the owner and made St. Kilda a nature reserve. In 1986 St. Kilda became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In recent years the National Trust for Scotland has restored some of the houses, the church and the school for accommodation and education on the life of St Kilda. Tourism has been encouraged in so far as it does not conflict with preserving the flora, fauna and wild life of the St Kilda Islands.

Plenty to explore in the Outer Hebrides 

The Hebrides derive their name from the Norse (Viking) word Havbrodoy meaning on the edge of the sea, but they were inhabited long before the Norse Era. Pliny called them Hebudes, and Ptolemy in the 2nd century wrote of the Eboudai islands above Ivernia (Ireland).

Enjoy the novelty of a being on a historic sailing ship  exploring distinctive celtic communities, who only have a handful of yachts visit them each year, and have relied on small cargo shipspast and present for thier essential supplies.

Some uninhabited islands which are a haven for seabirds. Like the Great Barrier Reef, the chain of Outer Hebridean islands runs parallel to the Scottish mainland and protects it from ocean storms. The Atlantic facing coast is an almost continuous strand of sand dunes and machair (grass) whilst the east coast is deeply indented with a maze of islets and anchorages.

WINDS, WAVES & WEATHER

Loch Broom is a good flat water loch to set sails but once out in the Minches it can be rough, but you do have the bulk of Skye and the mainland to protect you from East winds and the Outer Hebrides forming a bit of a barrier from the Atlantic. Beyond the Outer Hebrides you are in the North Atlantic but you are unlikely to be sailing for St Kilda if the seas are very rough.  Offshore islands can have their own micro climate and may miss the rain that the mainland mountains seem to attract. Be prepared for wild weather and then anything calm and sunny is a bonus! 4 seasons in one day.

Wild Swimming

Swimming from Tallulah in a beautiful anchorage is often a big part of the fun on our sailing activity holidays. You are welcome to bring a wetsuit.

The availability of Wild Swimming from Tallulah is at the skippers discretion. Supervision is provided from Tallulah and her dinghies. All our skippers are qualified with First Aid at Sea but not all are lifesaving guards. The boarding ladder requires quite strong arms but if you can swallow your pride we can assist you climb back on board with a little bit of help from our helicopter stop and tackle. We have a paddle board too. Scotland sea temperatures are partly warmed by the Gulf Stream, but it is not called ‘Scotland the Brave’ for nothing.

SAILING STYLE & LIFE ON BOARD

We cater for a wide range of ages and physical abilities, and how much you are expected to do varies a bit between vessels. See the vessel tab above which explains all about the ‘sailing style’ and what to expect in terms of hands on participation.  There is a lot of information about day to day life, the ships facilities and accommodation on the vessel pages.

 

HANDS ON HOLIDAYS

Whether you are an experienced sailor or a complete beginner, the professional crew will train you to be guest crew from the moment you arrive, with the intention that everybody works together to sail the ship. The common thread to all Classic Sailing holidays is ‘Hands on’ participation on ships that use ropes, blocks and tackles and ‘people power’ to set sail.

AGILITY & FITNESS

Every customer sailing with us will need to fill in basic medical questions on their booking application.  If you are not sure if your current level of fitness and agility are up to a voyage, then please ring the Classic Sailing Office and we can chat through your concerns and possibly find options that might suit you better. 

What to pack for a sailing holiday on Tallulah

Plus Parking in St Mawes

What's Included

• Sailing Instruction
• Safety Equipment (Life jackets and harnesses)
• All meals on board & refreshments throughout the day
• Bed linen, duvet, pillows
• Wooden rowing boat activities
• 2 x Stand Up Paddleboards & buoyancy jackets (on summer voyages)

What is not included

• Alcoholic beverages
• Towels
• Wellie boots
• Waterproof jackets & trousers 

What to Bring

Please limit yourself to one soft bag or rucksack as there is limited storage space on board. No suitcases please!

Tallulah does not have waterproof jacket and trousers yet, so please bring a properly waterproof jacket and trousers on all voyages.

Walking and cycling waterproofs are usually adequate and much lighter to pack, so there really is no need to buy a coastal sailing jacket (unless you really want an excuse to invest in your future sailing). If you need any advice, or lack of a jacket is preventing you participating, please ring us on 01326 53 1234

• warm, windproof jacket for days when you don't want to wear a waterproof jacket
• Hats for sun and cold weather.
• At least two sets of warm clothes - layers e.g. tracksuit bottoms, shirts, fleece jacket, wool jumpers, thick socks, and neck scarf. It can get cold at sea even in mid summer.
• Swim suit, towel, and suntan lotion.
• we have space if you want to bring a wetsuit for wild swimming or SUP adventures
• Flat shoes with a good grip e.g. trainers or sailing deck shoes.
• Sailing boots or wellies as the sea can come over deck if rough*.
• (An alternative to boots in summer is to bring another pair of flat shoes with a good grip in case the first pair get wet).
• All terrain type sandals are great for dinghy trips ashore – but you do need shoes which protect your toes for sailing.
• Scillies trips – Walking boots are useful and can be these can be worn on deck too
• A small rucksack is useful for going ashore
• Camera, binoculars, sketchbook, a relaxing read.
• Passport for European or Ireland Voyages, Reciprocal Free Health Care card in Europe.
• Please bring a passport on French trips
• Any medication, spare spectacles. Seasick tablets - check with your Doctor, which brand if you suffer asthma or are on medication.
• RYA Cruising Logbook or similar if you want to log your sailing experience e.g. sea miles, night hours
• Musical instruments are always welcome.

Alcohol

Tallulah does not always have wine bottles for sale on board so you are welcome to bring modest quantities of alcohol, (unless it is an alcohol free voyage) e.g. to drink with evening meals, but drinking whilst sailing is not allowed.

A Note on Covid 19

While Tallulah's guests do not need to prove Covid Vaccination status at this time, it is expected that if a guest feels unwell prior to joining the ship they should always use common sense and test when appropriate to decide whether they should join the voyage, for their own safety and the safety of others onboard. It is a requirement that guests on residential voyages take out appropriate Travel Insurance and care should be taken to ensure insurance includes cover for such a case. Likewise, should members of Tallulah's professional crew including the skipper feel unwell prior to a voyage, they will always use common sense & test when appropriate.

 

Car Parking in St Mawes for Crew Joining Tallulah

If you're arriving by car, motorbike, or camper van to join Tallulah in St Mawes, here’s what you need to know.

There is a long-stay car park behind the Rising Sun pub in central St Mawes. It's run by St Just in Roseland Parish Council. You pay at the machine on arrival — card payments are accepted. Advance booking isn’t possible.

As of April 2023, the daily charge for a standard vehicle using one bay was £6, with reduced rates for longer stays (e.g. £35 for a week). Prices may have changed since then.

Motorbikes parked on yellow hatchings are free. Full mobility vehicles are also free. Blue Badge holders pay the standard rate.

Camper vans are welcome to park during the day but cannot be used for overnight stays. If your vehicle uses more than one space, you’ll need to pay for each and display a ticket for both. Coach bays are not to be used.

The car park is in regular use by both locals and visitors. High-value vehicles are often parked here, and concerns around theft or vandalism are very low, though of course no guarantee can be given.

Note
Always check the signage when you arrive, especially if staying multiple days or parking a large vehicle. Local rules may change.

Photos and images of the striking 44ft pilot cutter Tallulah, offering charter voyages for individuals, couples and groups from 2022.  Based in St Mawes, Cornwall. No experience is necessary and a local skipper as your guide.