Classic sailing meets Swedish nature, with plenty of fun along the way

Exploring the Stockholm Archipelago with Sunbeam

Sailing the Stockholm archipelago is unlike offshore sailing or coastal passages elsewhere in Europe. With more than 30,000 islands, skerries and pine-covered rocks stretching from the city out into the Baltic, it’s more like travelling through a watery national park! Tide is almost non-existent, swell is rare and shelter is never far away, which makes it one of the most forgiving sailing grounds in the world — especially for those new to traditional ships.

Sunbeam is perfectly suited to it. Built in 1905 as a Lowestoft sailing trawler, she was designed to carry heavy nets in North Sea weather. Under gaff rig she feels steady and confident, and her wide decks make her a reassuring platform for first-timers and veteran sailors alike.

Whether you’re here for nature, seamanship or simply the novelty of travelling by wind through one of Europe’s most remarkable landscapes, the rhythm of archipelago sailing is easy to settle into — steady sailing, regular landfalls, and a different view every morning.

Setting Sail from Beckholmen, Stockholm

Beckholmen is a working historic shipyard island in the middle of Stockholm — tar in the air, ferries sliding past, and the Vasa Museum just a short walk away if you arrive early. It’s the right place to step aboard a ship like Sunbeam — a 1905 gaff-rigged Lowestoft Sailing Trawler with wide decks, a solid tiller and enough history in her timbers to make most modern boats feel flimsy.

Skipper Magnus runs a well-organised ship but never a stern one. Safety briefing first, good humour second. Expect to feel part of the crew within the first hour.

Along the Way

As with all sailing voyages, there is no such thing as a ‘typical day’ on Sunbeam. The destinations you aim for and route you take to get there is shaped by the wind and weather, especially in a archipelago with so many island options.

The archipelago stretches from Norrtälje and Arholma in the north to Nyköping in the south, offering a vast area to explore. The flexibility of our itinerary means we can tailor the experience to suit the conditions, providing opportunities for exhilarating sailing as well as tranquil moments anchored in sheltered harbours.

High summer in the Stockholm archipelago is as close as sailing gets to ‘easy mode’ – perfect for first-time sailors, or those prone to seasickness. There’s wind most afternoons, barely any swell and thousands of islands to hide behind if the weather shifts.

Mornings usually begin with a continental breakfast, coffee on deck and someone trying to decide whether to swim before breakfast. Underway, you’ll get to handle the lines, steer the ship, or simply sit back and watch the tree-lined shores slide past. Magnus explains things plainly — “Pull that. No, the other that. Yes. Good.” — and you’ll be setting sails you couldn’t name the day before.

By late afternoon, the ship noses into some quiet rock inlet or harbour pier. Sometimes the crew will fire up the gunnel-mounted charcoal grill. Sometimes there’s a sauna ashore. Sometimes a fire pit. Usually there’s music and always laughter. Once there was a midnight blueberry-picking expedition that got slightly competitive.

Marinas, Natural Harbours, and Hidden Gems

Every voyage in the Stockholm Archipelago is different, thanks to it’s 30,000+ granite islands, each with their own unique character. Typically Sunbeam visits marinas on one or two nights, where guests can shower and the crew can replenish water and provisions. However, much of the time is spent in secluded natural harbours. With no discernible tidal hight changes to contend with, Sunbeam can be held securely to the very islands themselves, using Swedish mooring techniques. This traditional approach, tying lines to tree trunks and rocks, not only provides secure mooring but also an authentic sailing experience.

Some of the 1000’s of potential stops might include:

• Möja-Ramsmora: Discover the museum of artist Roland Svensson and swim in the island’s peaceful lake.
• Arholma: This larger island, with its permanent population, offers a glimpse into archipelago life and hosts Arholma-Nord, a preserved Cold War-era fortress.
• Sandhamn: Once a pilots’ station, now a modern marina, Sandhamn is unique for its sandy landscape amidst the rocky archipelago.
• Svenska Högarna: This remote island marks the outermost point of our journey, boasting a lighthouse and dramatic seascapes.

Life on Board – Comfortable and Communal Living

As with all Classic Sailing voyages, guests are encouraged to get hands-on with traditional sailing aboard Sunbeam. You can participate in sail handling, navigation, and mooring. No prior experience is needed, the crew provides guidance for all levels, making it an engaging way to learn traditional sailing skills.

Cabins are ship-style: curtained bunks (singles or doubles), two ‘proper ‘heads’ (toilets), even central heating for cooler nights. Ten guests maximum, usually a mix of solo travellers and couples. Ages tend to spread from 30s to 70s. Nobody stays a stranger past the first sail hoist! There are no showers aboard but there are sinks for washing and several of the islands have showers (and even saunas!) – so nobody goes feral.

Meals are hearty and communal. Traditional Swedish meatballs and mash one night, on-deck barbecue another, soup-and-sailing lunches with mugs balanced on hatch covers. A galley rota is usually drawn up for cooking – all under the guidance of the crew.

Non-alcoholic drinks are provided, and while Sunbeam cannot sell alcoholic beverages due to Swedish regulations, guests are welcome to bring their own drinks for consumption when docked – at the skippers discretion

Arriving Back in Beckholmen

Returning to Stockholm by ship feels different from arriving by plane. You glide past ferries and palaces and suddenly you’re moored next to tugboats again, salt still in your hair. If you can spare an extra day ashore, walk over to Skeppsholmen to see Sweden’s preserved sailing ships or head into Gamla Stan for a late-night beer in a medieval cellar. After a week of island quiet, the city feels almost too loud.

WINDS, WAVES & WEATHER

Late July to early August is the Baltic at its most forgiving. Force 3 to 5 winds are common, always with shelter nearby. No tide to speak of. Swell virtually non-existent unless you deliberately head into open water — and even then it’s polite. Water sits at 18–21°C. You can swim every day if you’ve got the nerve. If not, you will by midweek.

A NOTE ON VOYAGE DESCRIPTIONS

On a sailing voyage we never use the word itinerary, as skippers will always be aiming for the best and safest sailing routes for the forecast. They are as keen as you to include some of the highlights described above, but when it comes to sailing, you have to go with Mother Nature, not fight her. The description provided is based on what we think might be possible, based on past trips, or prior experience, but nothing is guaranteed on a sailing voyage. As such, the scheduled joining ports, routes, activities and/or destinations may be altered. Due to the complexities of weather systems, this may be at very short notice. 

HANDS ON HOLIDAYS

Whether you are an experienced sailor or a complete beginner, the professional crew will train you to be guest crew from the moment you arrive, with the intention that everybody works together to sail the ship. The common thread to all Classic Sailing holidays is ‘Hands on’ participation on ships that use ropes, blocks and tackles and ‘people power’ to set sail. For more on this, see our article ‘What is a Hands-On Sailing Holiday?’

What to pack for a sailing holiday on Sunbeam

What is Included:

• All meals and soft drinks aboard
• All safety equipment, including lifejackets. Please don't bring your own lifejacket, as it may not comply with Sunbeam's commercial safety standards.
• Your bunk, blanket and pillow (but you WILL NEED A SLEEPING BAG AND PILLOW CASE)
• Accomodation
  • Sunbeam accommodates eight guest sailors in a combination of single berths, double bed berths all in shared sleeping spaces, berths are separated by curtains for privacy.
  • There are no cabins.

What is Not Included:

• Travel to and from your voyage
• Personal travel insurance (see our advice on Travel Insurance)
• Alcohol- you can bring a moderate amount with you if you wish- consumption is always at the discretion of the Skipper, and is never permitted whilst the ship is underway.*
• Waterproofs - If this is your first voyage, good walking waterproofs will be fine. We only recommend buying sailing waterproofs if you are frequent sailors. If you don't have a waterproof jacket and / or trousers, do let us know.

*There are strict laws surrounding alcohol in Sweden, including while sailing. A note from the Sunbeam team: “Due to the Swedish state monopoly we are not allowed to have alcoholic beverages for purchase. We will have a selection of low alcohol beer (2.8-3.5% vol) and guests are welcome to bring their own drinks of choice. Alcoholic beverages can only be consumed in moderation when docked, as per the skipper’s discretion. Strict sobriety is required for all involved in sailing or motoring. Smoking is restricted to specific outdoor areas.

What to Bring

• Please, no valuable jewellery or other valuables, unless you have got specific travel insurance to cover it.
• Waterproofs - see above.
• A sleeping bag, pillow case and towel.
• Hats for sun and cold weather.
• Swim suit and suntan lotion.
• Flat shoes with a good grip e.g. trainers or sailing deck shoes. Sailing boots or wellies are also helpful.
• A small amount of cash for jaunts ashore.
• All terrain type Sandals are great for dinghy trips ashore – but you do need shoes which protect your toes for sailing.
• Camera, binoculars, sketchbook, a relaxing read, a musical instrument...
• Any medication, spare spectacles. Seasickness tablets or pressure-point wrist bands (talk to your pharmacist)
• Your own logbook if you'd like to keep track of your sea miles.
• Tech chargers with European adaptors and waterproof cases for any electronics. A rechargeable battery pack for your phone / camera can be really helpful, as the power supply on board is not 24 hours.

N.B. BOATS HAVE LIMITED STORAGE SPACE SO PLEASE LIMIT YOURSELF TO ONE SOFT BAG OR RUCKSACK. Please don't use a rigid suitcase or a bag with a rigid frame. Soft bags are much easier to fold up and stow.

Sunbeam is a very relaxed vessel and I think that speaks volumes about the skill and knowledge of the crew. She's comfortable and communal but still has the space for quiet, personal moments. As a trawler, she's a really sturdy, heavy lady and boasts a pretty simple rig that you'll get the hang of quickly - though you'll be ready for a cuppa after setting the sails! - Fabulous ship, lovely crew and stunning sailing area! You'll love your time on Sunbeam!

- Jess

Brilliant trip!

- Mike

Highlights of the Voyage: The scenery/topography especially Soderarm, and mooring to shore against rock – the effective non existence of tidal rise and fall was a treat! Also meeting like minded individuals from an assortment of ages and backgrounds!

- Graham

Honestly the experience was incredible: the sights were amazing; the experience was wonderful; and the activities and atmosphere was incredible. However what really made the trip was just how kind, knowledge and wonderful the members of the crew were.

- A Seryck