Late summer sailing in the Stockholm Archipelago – longer sails, quiet anchorages and cosy evenings afloat

Exploring the Stockholm Archipelago with Sunbeam

Sailing the Stockholm archipelago is unlike offshore sailing or coastal passages elsewhere in Europe. With more than 30,000 islands, skerries and pine-covered rocks stretching from the city out into the Baltic, it’s more like travelling through a watery national park. Tide is almost non-existent, swell is rare and shelter is never far away, which makes it one of the most forgiving sailing grounds in the world, especially for those new to traditional ships.

Late August gives the archipelago a slightly different feel. The sea is still warm from summer, the forests still green, but there’s a little more wind in the afternoons and a little more quiet in the anchorages. It’s often the point in the season when people settle most naturally into the rhythm of the ship.

Sunbeam is perfectly suited to it. Built in 1905 as a Lowestoft sailing trawler, she was designed to carry heavy nets in North Sea weather. Under gaff rig she feels steady and confident, and her wide decks make her a reassuring platform for first-timers and veteran sailors alike.

Setting Sail from Beckholmen, Stockholm

By late August, Stockholm begins to relax after the busiest part of the tourist season. Beckholmen’s historic shipyard still hums steadily with the smell of pine tar, timber and salt water hanging in the air. It’s a fitting place to step aboard Sunbeam before heading out among the islands for a week under sail.

Arrive a little early and walk into Djurgården for the Vasa Museum or wander across to Skeppsholmen to see Sweden’s preserved sailing fleet before joining the crew aboard.

Your skipper on this voyage is Gunnar. Gunnar doesn’t rush. Things happen after coffee, ideally during fika, but when it’s time to move, he handles Sunbeam with the sort of calm competence that quickly puts people at ease. One minute you’re chatting on deck, the next you realise the ship has quietly threaded its way between granite rocks and narrow channels that looked impossible from a distance.

Before long, you stop worrying about where the ship is going and simply enjoy being part of it.

Along the Way

This late-season voyage often includes slightly longer sails between anchorages, making the most of the steadier late summer winds. One day might see Sunbeam bowling along comfortably under full canvas through wide sounds like Kanholmsfjärden, the next slipping quietly into the shelter of narrow granite inlets such as Lilla Nassa or Korshamn.

The outer archipelago features more heavily at this time of year, with quieter islands, fewer visiting boats and peaceful anchorages that can feel wonderfully remote despite being only a day or two from Stockholm.

Life aboard quickly settles into an easy rhythm. Mornings begin with coffee on deck, someone checking the weather forecast and another person debating whether the water is warm enough for a swim before breakfast. Under sail, everyone can get involved as much or as little as they wish, whether steering, handling lines, helping navigate or simply sitting back watching the forests and rocky shores slide past.

Evenings are often the highlight. A barbecue on the gunwale, a sauna ashore, cinnamon buns appearing from the galley after a breezy sail, or everyone gathered around the saloon table while Gunnar quietly studies the chart for tomorrow’s route. Late season voyages often become especially sociable, with cooler evenings drawing people together after a day outside in the fresh air.

There’s a growing sense of having properly left everyday life behind.

Marinas, Natural Harbours and Hidden Gems

Typically Sunbeam visits marinas on one or two nights, where guests can shower and the crew can replenish water and provisions. Much of the voyage, though, is spent in secluded natural harbours. With no discernible tidal height changes to contend with, Sunbeam can be held securely to the islands themselves using Swedish mooring techniques. This traditional approach, tying lines to rocks and trees ashore, not only provides secure mooring but also becomes one of the most memorable parts of sailing in the archipelago.

Some of the 1000’s of potential stops might include:

• Möja-Ramsmora: Discover the museum of artist Roland Svensson and swim in the island’s peaceful lake.
• Arholma: This larger island, with its permanent population, offers a glimpse into archipelago life and hosts Arholma-Nord, a preserved Cold War-era fortress.
• Sandhamn: Once a pilots’ station, now a modern marina, Sandhamn is unique for its sandy landscape amidst the rocky archipelago.
• Svenska Högarna: This remote island marks the outermost point of our journey, boasting a lighthouse and dramatic seascapes.

Life on Board – Comfortable and Communal Living

As with all Classic Sailing voyages, guests are encouraged to get hands-on with traditional sailing aboard Sunbeam. You can participate in sail handling, navigation and mooring. No prior experience is needed, the crew provides guidance for all levels, making it an engaging and rewarding way to learn traditional sailing skills.

Cabins are ship-style: curtained bunks (singles and doubles), two proper heads (toilets), and even central heating for cooler nights. Ten guests maximum, usually a mix of solo travellers and couples. Ages tend to spread from 30s to 70s. Nobody stays a stranger for long once the sails go up.

There are no showers aboard but there are sinks for daily washing and several of the islands have showers and saunas, so life aboard quickly finds its own comfortable rhythm.

Meals are hearty and communal. Traditional Swedish meatballs and mash one night, soup and fresh bread after a windy afternoon sail the next, perhaps an on deck barbecue while the evening light fades over the rocks. A galley rota is usually drawn up for cooking, all under the guidance and assistance of the crew.

Non-alcoholic drinks are provided, and while Sunbeam cannot sell alcoholic beverages due to Swedish regulations, guests are welcome to bring their own drinks for consumption when docked, at the skipper’s discretion.

Arriving Back in Beckholmen

Approaching Stockholm under sail at the end of August feels rather special. The evenings begin drawing in slightly earlier, the city glows warmly across the water and Sunbeam slips back among the ferries, tugs and working boats of Beckholmen after a week among quiet islands and granite anchorages.

If you can spare a final day ashore, wander through Gamla Stan or visit Fotografiska while your sea legs are still adjusting. After a week of natural harbours and late summer sailing, the city feels surprisingly busy.

WINDS, WAVES & WEATHER

Late August often brings some of the most rewarding sailing conditions of the season. Expect Force 2–5 winds as a rule, often a little steadier and more reliable than high summer, making for longer passages without discomfort. Thanks to the shelter of the islands, seas remain flat and forgiving even when the breeze freshens.

Temperatures are usually comfortable for being active on deck, with cooler evenings making the heated saloon and shared meals aboard feel especially welcoming. Water temperatures remain surprisingly swimmable at around 17–19°C, though by this point in the season there’s usually a bit more negotiation before the first person jumps in.

A NOTE ON VOYAGE DESCRIPTIONS

On a sailing voyage we never use the word itinerary, as skippers will always be aiming for the best and safest sailing routes for the forecast. They are as keen as you to include some of the highlights described above, but when it comes to sailing, you have to go with Mother Nature, not fight her. The description provided is based on what we think might be possible, based on past trips, or prior experience, but nothing is guaranteed on a sailing voyage. As such, the scheduled joining ports, routes, activities and/or destinations may be altered. Due to the complexities of weather systems, this may be at very short notice. 

HANDS ON HOLIDAYS

Whether you are an experienced sailor or a complete beginner, the professional crew will train you to be guest crew from the moment you arrive, with the intention that everybody works together to sail the ship. The common thread to all Classic Sailing holidays is ‘Hands on’ participation on ships that use ropes, blocks and tackles and ‘people power’ to set sail. For more on this, see our article ‘What is a Hands-On Sailing Holiday?’

What to pack for a sailing holiday on Sunbeam

What is Included:

• All meals and soft drinks aboard
• All safety equipment, including lifejackets. Please don't bring your own lifejacket, as it may not comply with Sunbeam's commercial safety standards.
• Your bunk, blanket and pillow (but you WILL NEED A SLEEPING BAG AND PILLOW CASE)
• Accomodation
  • Sunbeam accommodates eight guest sailors in a combination of single berths, double bed berths all in shared sleeping spaces, berths are separated by curtains for privacy.
  • There are no cabins.

What is Not Included:

• Travel to and from your voyage
• Personal travel insurance (see our advice on Travel Insurance)
• Alcohol- you can bring a moderate amount with you if you wish- consumption is always at the discretion of the Skipper, and is never permitted whilst the ship is underway.*
• Waterproofs - If this is your first voyage, good walking waterproofs will be fine. We only recommend buying sailing waterproofs if you are frequent sailors. If you don't have a waterproof jacket and / or trousers, do let us know.

*There are strict laws surrounding alcohol in Sweden, including while sailing. A note from the Sunbeam team: “Due to the Swedish state monopoly we are not allowed to have alcoholic beverages for purchase. We will have a selection of low alcohol beer (2.8-3.5% vol) and guests are welcome to bring their own drinks of choice. Alcoholic beverages can only be consumed in moderation when docked, as per the skipper’s discretion. Strict sobriety is required for all involved in sailing or motoring. Smoking is restricted to specific outdoor areas.

What to Bring

• Please, no valuable jewellery or other valuables, unless you have got specific travel insurance to cover it.
• Waterproofs - see above.
• A sleeping bag, pillow case and towel.
• Hats for sun and cold weather.
• Swim suit and suntan lotion.
• Flat shoes with a good grip e.g. trainers or sailing deck shoes. Sailing boots or wellies are also helpful.
• A small amount of cash for jaunts ashore.
• All terrain type Sandals are great for dinghy trips ashore – but you do need shoes which protect your toes for sailing.
• Camera, binoculars, sketchbook, a relaxing read, a musical instrument...
• Any medication, spare spectacles. Seasickness tablets or pressure-point wrist bands (talk to your pharmacist)
• Your own logbook if you'd like to keep track of your sea miles.
• Tech chargers with European adaptors and waterproof cases for any electronics. A rechargeable battery pack for your phone / camera can be really helpful, as the power supply on board is not 24 hours.

N.B. BOATS HAVE LIMITED STORAGE SPACE SO PLEASE LIMIT YOURSELF TO ONE SOFT BAG OR RUCKSACK. Please don't use a rigid suitcase or a bag with a rigid frame. Soft bags are much easier to fold up and stow.

My wife and I did this last summer. The Stockholm archipelago is astonishingly beautiful. Neither of us had much sailing experience but were willing to learn and pitch in. It was truly fab and an experience to be treasured.

- Richard

Sunbeam is a very relaxed vessel and I think that speaks volumes about the skill and knowledge of the crew. She's comfortable and communal but still has the space for quiet, personal moments. As a trawler, she's a really sturdy, heavy lady and boasts a pretty simple rig that you'll get the hang of quickly - though you'll be ready for a cuppa after setting the sails! - Fabulous ship, lovely crew and stunning sailing area! You'll love your time on Sunbeam!

- Jess

Brilliant trip!

- Mike

Highlights of the Voyage: The scenery/topography especially Soderarm, and mooring to shore against rock – the effective non existence of tidal rise and fall was a treat! Also meeting like minded individuals from an assortment of ages and backgrounds!

- Graham

Honestly the experience was incredible: the sights were amazing; the experience was wonderful; and the activities and atmosphere was incredible. However what really made the trip was just how kind, knowledge and wonderful the members of the crew were.

- A S