Introduction by Adam Purser
I first met Will Wagstaff many years ago giving guided wildlife tours to our guests from Eve of St Mawes as we explored the Isles of Scilly. Since then Will has visited Antarctica as an expedition cruise ship guide on a huge number of occasions and am delighted he has written this article for Classic Sailing.
Antarctica by Will Wagstaff – Wildlife Guide
For many thinking of visiting Antarctica it is images of a white landscape teeming with penguins and other wildlife that come to mind. I have been lucky enough to have visited this amazing continent many times over the last twenty four years and can say that that is indeed what one sees. Although one has to qualify it a little and say that penguins are not everywhere, but there are an awful lot of them.
What wildlife you see in Antarctica
One of the first questions that gets asked is what is there to see at different times of year. In broad terms one will always see penguins, seals and spectacular ice with whales becoming commoner as the season progresses. However, there are differences between the different parts of the Antarctic season.
Antarctica wildlife by season
Those visiting at the start of the season in November and December will see the penguin colonies starting to get very active with lots of adults displaying and nest building. Watching Gentoo Penguins stealing nesting material, aka stones, from each other is always entertaining.
Adelie Penguins start their season slightly later but make up for the late start by going at top speed at all times and Chinstrap Penguins do everything at high volume with their ‘loud clamorous display’ being well named. The start of the season is just after the ice has started melting, so everything is pristine white, but some of the channels may still be blocked resulting in the occasional detour through some spectacular scenery.
Years ago the numbers of whales seen would be lower before Christmas than later in the season but as numbers slowly recover following the ban on whaling there are more to be seen throughout.
By mid season, either side of Christmas and the New Year, the crescendo of noise around the penguin colonies has subsided slightly but the first chicks will be starting to appear, the three smaller penguins that breed in Antarctica, Chinstrap, Adelie and Gentoo all have two young, while the Emperor only has one, but we rarely see chicks, or indeed adults of the latter due to their midwinter breeding time and being much further south.
As the season progresses into the New Year young penguins are now covered in a fluffy coat and have put on fat and are now big enough so that both parents can go to sea to gather food. These young gather in creches for safety with only a handful of adults nearby on watch for marauding skuas or giant petrels.
The latter being the apex predator on land in Antarctica. When a parent comes back from the sea it waddles surprisingly quickly to the colony, calling occasionally, until its young hears it and comes running. However, there are always opportunist youngsters from another brood who fancy a free meal. The parents deal with his conundrum by running away as fast as they can. The young give chase resulting in the sight of these normally elegant birds running back and forth, falling over time and again as they lead the young along. Eventually only its young will persevere and get fed. Although they still have to adopt a submissive, crouched pose, make a high-pitched noise and tap their parents bill before they finally get fed. It’s quite exhausting to watch!
Seals and ice conditions
Seals are seen through the season, but it all depends upon how much sea ice there is for them to haul out on as to how many one sees. Weddell Seals will come out on land, and are generally totally oblivious to people as long as we keep our distance. Leopard Seals and Crabeater Seals prefer being out on ice and the latter can sometimes be found in small groups.
Whales in Antarctica waters
As one approaches the South Shetland Islands one can see the first icebergs of the trip as well as Fin Whales. The Drake Passage is a good place to look for cetaceans, with increasing sightings of some of the rare ‘beaked whales’ as well as the oceanic Hourglass Dolphins, Pilot Whales and who knows what else can be seen on a calm day.
If it is a slightly bumpy Drake, then whales are much harder to spot but there is a much better chance of seeing albatrosses. The Black-browed Albatross is by far the most common and is often very numerous in the Beagle Channel, but it is the huge Wandering Albatrosses that catch the eye. Other species seen out here include Grey-headed and the beautiful Light-mantled Albatross. There are a myriad other seabirds that call this ocean home, including storm-petrels such as the Wilson’s Storm-petrel and the Black-bellied Storm-petrel. The black and white pattern of the Cape Petrel makes them an attractive bird and for the keener birders the challenges of identifying the prions as they whizz by keeps us entertained.
Many regard the days at sea as a chance to have a lie in but there is a lot to see, so at least sit in a chair looking out the window if not out on deck with the expedition team. If one is lucky enough to see a Blue Whale that’s where it’s going to be.
Wildlife encounters from ship and zodiac
In the New Year Humpback Whales can be very common in the Gerlach Strait, Dallmann Bay and Wilhelmina Bay in particular, but can turn up anywhere, often in small groups. Antarctic Minke Whales are usually solitary creatures and can be seen in any channel but are more regularly seen in Cierva Cove and Paradise Bay. There is a resident population of Orca in the Gerlach Strait which on a calm day can be seen at some distance, but when it’s rough their low ‘blows’ can be hard to spot. Orca can be seen elsewhere but they tend to be moving through and therefore less predictable. Those travelling down the Beagle Channel to and from Antarctica should keep an eye open for Sei Whale as they have become more numerous in recent years along with small groups of Dusky Dolphins.
Leopard Seals can pop up anywhere, lounging around on an ice flow in Paradise Bay for example or late in the season haunting the edges of a penguin colony just as the young are learning to swim. Although primarily a Krill eater there are partial to a penguin or two at this time of year. Later in the season is a good time to look out for increasing numbers of Antarctic Fur Seals as they come to feed around the peninsula having migrated from their South Georgia breeding grounds.
The penguin colonies are a hive of activity by late season with young begging for feeding being the most dominant noise. Many will have now left the colonies and be making their way down the penguin highways to meet their parents as they come back from the sea. We have to be careful we do not use these highways to ensure they are free for the birds to move back and forth. Although they do seem quite partial to using any track we make if the snow is deep!
As one approaches any landing one soon becomes aware that nature is in charge. Each site is different and will have different rules. The guides on ship will either be leading groups around the area or be stationed at strategic points along the shore. Most landings are relatively small but there is always a lot so see. So much so that when the Expedition Leader gives you a briefing as you land, pay attention to the time of the last zodiac so that you allocate enough time to see all the sights. The guides will be able to ensure you don’t miss what is going on whether it be a penguin food chase, a Snowy Sheathbill sneaking around looking for food or the occasional unusual sight such as the leucistic Gentoo Penguin at Cuverville Island this last season. (Leucistic is a surface condition that makes the pigment white – it looks like albinoism but has a different medical reason.)
Zodiac cruises are great fun and often end up with some amazing wildlife encounters, although when a Minke Whale blew bubbles under the zodiac I was driving, I think I jumped feet!
At some point during your visit, just stop and look around ignoring the hubbub of the penguin colonies etc. It is such a vast space that it is difficult to take it all in but it is often those few moments that will mean so much when back home again.
After my many trips I am still seeing new things, whether it be a new site, some bird behaviour or something out of the blue such as the Orcas watching us watching them in the Gerlach this season, a memorable day.
Remember there is no such thing as too many photos of ice or penguins!
Will Wagstaff Apr 2026
Antarctica Sailing – What it involves and how to decide
The Best Way to Visit Antarctica.
Will Wagstaff – Antarctica Bio
I first visited Antarctica twenty four years ago in 2002 and have been a regular visitor since 2010, having visited many of the landing sites multiple times over the years.
I have been in Antarctica in every month between early November and mid March and occasionally more than once in an Antarctic season, often spending up to two months on board working on an expedition cruise ship. I am primarily a bird guide but will also talk about, ice, whales, seals etc when guiding ashore, driving zodiacs or being on deck when crossing the Drake.
My guiding experience started here in the Isles of Scilly, but also covers the Arctic, Alaska, The Falkland Islands, South Georgia, the Galapagos Islands and many other land destinations around the world.
I am also the author of the Bradt Guide to the Falkland Islands- now in its 3rd edition.
IAATO Antarctica and How Tourism Is Managed by Classic Sailing.
IAATO.
