|Tue 19-09-2023, 18:00Illulissat, West Greenland||Fri 29-09-2023, 10:00Nuuk, The Capital of Greenland||Tecla||10 Nights||TC190923|
In 2019, the Tecla crew successfully navigated through the ice and channels of the North West Passage. In 2023, they will attempt the Northwest Passage again, this time from West to East. You can join the Reserve List without any payment.
A west Greenland cruise. Starting in Ilulissat, the voyage will pass through some of the most spectacular icebergs and bergy bits you will see. They originate from the glacier Sermeq Kujalleq, just South of Ilulissat. Towering high in the foggy mornings, navigating out of Disko Bay may depend on wind and weather.
Along the way there are many amazing places to stop, many of which have a rich history of whaling or Viking exploration.
Kangaamiut is one of those places named after the form of the mountains, which according to Dutch and British whalers looked like “sugar loafs”.
A huge icecap covers the interior of Greenland. Despite global warming, the whole coast has never been circumnavigated, even by an icebreaker, due to huge amounts of ice in the Northern half of the country that never breaks up. Coastal mountains as high as 2500 metres trap the ice cap but huge glaciers push through the ranges and these are very active, calving many icebergs into the sea. The middle of the West coast of Greenland has a small coastal strip of land that becomes ice free in the summer. This allows fjord sailing with incredible mountain backdrops, wilderness walking with low tundra vegetation and flowers or bare rock.
The West Coast is also where the majority of Greenland Inuit live but there is still plenty of wilderness. It offers a more extensive summer Arctic playground than Scoresby Sound on the East Coast and is steeped in Arctic exploration history from the Vikings to more recent attempts on the North West passage.
On a sailing voyage we never use the word itinerary, as skippers will always be aiming for the best sailing and shore landings for the forecast and most idyllic or sheltered anchors and ports. They are as keen as you to include some of the highlights described below, but you have to go with Mother Nature, not fight her. The description below is based on what we think might be possible, based on Tecla’s last adventure here but nothing is guaranteed on a sailing voyage. In this part of the world, ice reports, wind direction and keeping a close lookout is vital.
Just like the North West Passage, this voyage much depends on the amount of ice that is met underway. This could mean you have to wait a day or two in a sheltered place before heading out into the open.
Nuuk, starting point of this voyage, is the capital of Greenland. Flights to Nuuk from Reykjavik are daily. And although in winter time the ice wins land and spreads out also into the bay of Nuuk. In the summer time Nuuk is free of most forms of ice. The city houses a large part of the population of Greenland. Once founded by early settlers and called ‘Good Hope’, it was only after the second world war, when the Greenlandic National identity was reawakened that the city was renamed, Nuuk, translated this means Cape. The National museum has a collection of Inuit mummies dating back to the 15th century. The Cultural Centre of Nuuk displays the work of a different Greenland Artist each year, which is well worth a visit.
Setting sail North from Ilulissat, there is much exploring to do along the way. Depending on wind, and weather conditions and taking in account any Ice anomalies like Storis – sea ice – making its way around the south cape.
The island of Akilia has the oldest sedimentary rocks in the world and south of Maniitsoq is evidence of a huge meteorite which hit the earth 3 million years ago. This bit of coast North of Nuuk is good for blue whale or humpbacks.
The first day might be used to sail to Maniitsoq and the fantastic landscapes around the Sermilinguaq Fjord with glaciers reaching down to the sea.
Further North are the distinctive mountain surroundings were formally known as Sukkertoppen. This name came from Dutch, German and British whalers in the 17th and 18th century, who thought the flat mountain tops looked like ‘sugar loafs’. Kangaamiut is a village at the entrance to the Evighedsfjord (Eternities Fjord). The locals still make and sell Inuit handicrafts here. The mountains here are up to 2000 metres and look out for humpback whales in this region.
Another beautiful place with a whaling history is Ukiivik (Sydbay). A sheltered anchorage can be found here among one of the many low islands. Taking the dinghy ashore, it is a good surrounding to go for a hike. The hills are accessible and from the lighthouse some amazing pictures can be taken.
If you don’t have the energy for a trek uphill, then wander the shoreline towards the remains of the old whaling station. 18th Century whalers use to come here to trade with the Greenlanders during an annual meeting called the Assivik. Go and explore!
With more possible stops like Attu or Kangaatsiaq along the way. The Tecla will slowly make her way towards Disko Bay.
Disko Bay has been an important location for centuries. Its coastline was first encountered by Europeans when Erik the Red started a settlement in 985 AD on the more habitable western coast of Greenland. The two settlements, called the Eastern and Western settlements, were sustenance economies that survived on animal husbandry and farming. Soon after the Western settlement was established, the Norsemen travelled up the coast during the summer thaw and discovered Disko Bay.
In Disko Bay there are several beautiful places that can be visited. Anchorages around Disko Island are well sheltered and accessible. Some of the islands will not be open to the public as Arctic Terns will be nesting.
On Basisø an old abandoned settlement can be visited with old Sod houses dug into the hillside. And all the way in the North of Disko Fjord lies Atanikerdluk, once visited by a group of explorers out to find the Franklin Expedition. McClintock, in charge of the expedition has said about the area
Illulissat will be the end port of the voyage. The nearby glacier Sermeq Kujalleq will riddle the water with Bergy bits, Growlers and more forms of ice. Navigating into the Fjord will be depending on ice density and weather forecasts. Which will make it all the more interesting.
Illulissat itself is a busy fishing port with little over 4000 inhabitants. Which is a lot less then the estimate of 5000 sled dogs that also live in Illulissat. The town has, in a basic form, all you can need. A bakery, some shops, a hotel, a youth hostel and an airstrip. From Illulissat one can fly to Kangerlussuaq, to catch a connecting flight to Europe.
In August the remaining sea ice offers good opportunities to see polar bears. As you get into September the polar bears are starting to roam the beaches looking for stranded whales or birds to hunt.
In August the seabird chicks are hatching and learning to fly. They are preyed on by Gyr falcon, skuas, gulls and arctic fox. Seals and walrus can be seen hauled out on the remaining ice but by September they have moved to the beaches and rocks or are at sea hunting. Migrating Beluga and Narwhals keep heading North from West Greenland to stick with the edge of the sea ice. The North West passage is probably the only place far enough North to see them at this time of year.
There are often huge pods of Beluga in the estuaries of Somerset Sound. (source – Swoop Arctic).
Classic Sailing office team have sailed in Antarctica, East Greenland and Nova Scotia, but not the NW Passage or Bering Sea. Our best source of what it is really like is the sailors who were on Tecla last year.
We have the following useful publications, and will be reproducing the most useful snippets about weather and sea conditions.
Whether you are an experienced sailor or a complete beginner, the professional crew will train you to be guest crew from the moment you arrive, with the intention that everybody works together to sail the ship. The common thread to all Classic Sailing holidays is ‘Hands on’ participation on ships that use ropes, blocks and tackles and ‘people power’ to set sail.
We cater for a wide range of ages and physical abilities and how much you are expected to do varies a bit between vessels. See the vessel tab above which explains all about the ‘sailing style’ and what to expect in terms of hands on participation. There is a lot of information about day to day life, the ships facilities and accommodation on the vessel pages.
Every customer sailing with us will need to fill in basic medical questions on their booking application. If you are not sure if your current level of fitness and agility are up to a voyage, then please ring the Classic Sailing Office on 01326 53 1234 and we can chat through your concerns and possibly find options that might suit you better.
WHAT’S NOT INCLUDED
Ilulissat is a coastal town in western Greenland. It’s known for the Ilulissat Icefjord which is an utterly incredible sight and you owe yourself the opportunity to experience the Icefjord in all possible ways. It is listed as UNESCO world heritage site. The Ilulissat Museum traces the area’s history and the life of local-born explorer Knud Rasmussen. The area is home to thousands of Greenland dogs, used for dogsledding which is still widely used for transportation by the local fisherman on the ice or similarly as a way to see the sights.
A great place to understand old and new aspects of Inuit Culture, Nuuk shows both sides. It is the modern centre of Greenland with its city restaurants, fashion shops and as a tourist gateway to all sorts of outdoor adventures. Down on the historic waterfront you get a feeling that the old traditions, history and independence are still very important to the locals, even if they are now city dwellers. There is Greenland National Museum and the Inuit Art Museum here to learn more.
Although the exact joining location may not be known until much closer to the time, it is likely that Tecla will be somewhere near the harbour – where the ferry comes in on the map below. Make sure you make a note of the boat phone number found in your confirmation for any problems and up to date location on the day.
THIS IS TECLA standard voyage kit list. Specialist Antarctic kit list to follow shortly
There is limited storage space on Tecla so please pack all you belongings in a soft rucksack or bag.
What did you enjoy the most? Very difficult to separate out the various events but certainly the fjord voyage was better due to the increased variety of the programme. What was the worst bit? A shore-to-ship rib transfer in rough and windy conditions. Why do you sail? Freedom, adventure, commonality of purpose. Summary of the voyage. Any initial doubts as to the number and experience of the crew were very quickly dispelled and we were impressed with the knowledge and the handling skills of the skipper and the 2 mates. Every opportunity was taken to enhance our enjoyment on both voyages and at every stage we were made to feel relaxed and under no obligation to crew the ship under sometimes testing (but enjoyable) conditions. As an observation, we must congratulate the skipper for her culinary skills under difficult conditions..........the food was perfect for the voyage. Two voyages on Tecla Spring 2019
This was a great voyage. A great mix of sailing in Scottish waters, some super hikes and an opportunity to see some of the immensely important historical sites in the Orkneys and Sheltands. Mooring alongside in Fair Isle was a great privilege. The ocean passage to the Faroes was quiet but as a result we were blessed with clear skies whilst slinking in and out of the islands and some of the best coastal views one could hope to see anywhere. The ocean passage to Iceland was a bit of a bimble until we were 60 miles off and then it got exciting. Thanks to a great skipper and permanent crew we snuggled into a fjord whilst the cruise ship ran aground in Reykjavik harbour. A good holiday, an adventure and fun. K Barker, Tecla Ullapool to Reykjavik, May 2018
What was the best bit? Sailing under the Skye Bridge on a windy, sunny morning. .. What was the worst bit? Being sea sick on the first day, but I can't blame the boat or the crew for that - just the stormy weather. Why do you sail? I have never sailed before, this was a 'give it a try' holiday - it hasn't put me off doing it again sometime Any other comments An enjoyable week in less than ideal weather conditions. The crew was competent and friendly, the catering excellent - I wouldn't hesitate to recommend a voyage on Tecla." Jonathan E. Sailing in Scotland
"Brilliant, I would do it again tomorrow. And good value too. Food was excellent. I loved the spicy meat balls and my wife loved the fresh langoustines." Steve.
The voyage was " a delight. A competent and engaging professional crew, an interesting voyage with some challenges and some great rewards. Good companions to make the log spin around." Mike
What aspects did you enjoy most? "The sailing from Faroes isles to Iceland in perfect weather." What aspects did you enjoy least? "cannot answer this question as enjoyed every single moment" If you could sum up the trip? "It was my first voyage. I just thought I like being out, I like being active, and I like the sea, so I will have a look at sailing. After that marvellous experience I will certainly continue." Annon feedback form May 2015
Sailed on Tecla to St Kilda in June - amazing crew (Gijs, Janet, Barbara) and great company. I loved everything about the trip and strongly recommend to join the Tecla folks. Most enjoyable classic sailing with great food, true sense of teamwork, great guidance and good sense of humour. Can't get any better." Cheers, Thomas M.
"Best Experience Ever (5 stars for sailing, crew and food) " David on TC28/04/14
I sailed aboard Tecla from Oban to the Scillies in very early May. It was cold, wet and mostly pretty windy. It was thoroughly excellent. The Tecla is a great little ship, but it was the skipper and crew (paid and "trainees") that made it for me. Great job, thanks guys. I plan to come again. Steve W
I‘d never been sailing in Iceland or on Tecla so this was a double first for me. What I like about remote places is that the people you meet are welcoming and pleased to see you. They seem to be secure in their communities and proud of where they live. In 8 days in Iceland I only saw one policeman very very briefly. Not at the airport but following us for about 30 seconds in a police car in Reykjavik. Was it cold in Iceland, Yes and No, on arrival there was no need for more than 2 layers on top and one below. But later when sailing and the wind picked up from the north it did require 5 top layers and 2 below but we were less than 30 miles from the Arctic Circle! Overall I really enjoyed the voyage and the wildlife. Adam Purser June 2018
Globe trotting Tall Ship Tecla in action and images. This historic gaff ketch is our Iceland Specialist and also has Greenland Sailing Expeditions. Photos from Classic Sailing customers, ships crew and professional photographers. We hope it gives a flavour of her sailing, life on board, the people that come, her beautiful sailing grounds and what it is like to live below decks.
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